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6:17 pm
July 25, 2012
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Hello! I will post 2 photos directly from flickr from my “Learning room” set.
They were taken with 1/125 sec. , f.5.6 (that is the best for the 105mm zoom lens I have), with ISO100. More information about the EXIF please click on the blue D7000 in the upper right corner, once you entered flickr.
So, I cannot lower my apperture, because my lens dont allow, my ISO, I think is fine, but those photos have problems! Is it to much green, is it out of focus?
What shall I do to improve it?… next time, or with this photos in post production. I took pictures in RAW files.
Another question, this is the maximum zoom my lens allow cos it’s a kit lens 18-105mm, and of course I’ve done a huge crop in the entire photo.
What shall I do, approach even more to the subject? Get a macro lens? What lens?
Thank you for your sugestions.
DSC_0615 by danielaportela, on Flickr
DSC_0627 by danielaportela, on Flickr
I can see that it is not sharp, especial if I look at larger image on Flicker. It is probably due to the crop. The advantage of true macro lenses is that you can get clothes to the subject, then with regular lens.
Minimum Focus Distance for you lens is 1.48′ (45 cm) and Maximum Reproduction Ratio is 1:5. It is not suitable for a macro photography, but could probably work for close ups like this one. How far from the subject you think you were? Could you maybe post original photos? Your Exifs say that your Approximate Focus Distance was 1.26m for the first image and 0.71m for the second image. So it looks like you could have got closer.
10:30 pm
July 25, 2012
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Thank you for your reply! This is a jpg of one of the original photos. I don’t have the other because I believe I made the mistake of cropping de NEF with the Nikon software before I converted it to DNG in LR.
DSC_0615-2 by danielaportela, on Flickr
Yes, I believe I was at that distance from the subject. What do you think about using the AF-C instead the AF-S?
In what concerns sharpening in post production I added 45% of sharpening with an 92% masking but it is no use if I cannot focus correctly…
What kind of lenses do you recommend for this type of photography? I’m oppened to nikor, sigma or tamron but I’d like to invest in something compatible to FX, because of the future (a couple of years I dont know) possibility of working also with a full frame.
Yes, it looks better in terms of sharpness uncropped. It is not crisp, but not too bad. Did you add some sharpening in post prodaction to this image? it is always good idea to add some sharpening in post to Raw images, since unlike Jpeg, they are not sharpened in the camera and might feel softer then Jpegs.
It looks like you still had some room to get closer to the subject, if I you wanted a tighter crop.
I don’t see any reason to use AF-C. You want to control your focus. Very often manual focus is used for macro photography for more precision. Also to have a tripod and cable release could be a good idea. And remember the closer you get to the subject the more shallow your DoF would be at the same aperture and focal length.
About micro lenses. Nikon has a wide variety of micro lenses from 40mm all the way to 200mm. All of them are prime lenses:
Some will give your more or less magnification: life size or half size. The lower the focal length of the lens, usually the lower the cost (not talking about Pro lenses) and the smaller and lighter it will be to carry, but you will have to get closer to your subject. This can be a problem, if you like to take picture of birds and bugs. You can scary them away by coming too close. Usually people who like to photograph macro nature and get 60mm lens, want to upgrade to something longer later.
If you are really into nature macro photography and can afford it, I would go with AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED. It is around $900. You definitely can’t go wrong with this one. It is great for macro and also used for portraits, because it will give you a wonderful bokeh.
If you want something cheaper and ok with buying an off brand lenses. This two can be a good option:
Tamron SP 90mm f/2.8 Di 1:1 AF Macro Auto Focus Lens for Nikon or (About $490)
Tokina AT-X 100mm f/2.8 PRO D Macro Lens for Nikon (About $450)
12:27 am
July 25, 2012
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There is so much usefull information. I need to print this…but before consider the lenses, just a couple of general questions:
1 – What do they mean with life size or half size? What we see in the camera’s visor is not the complete final photo format?
2 – Are all those lenses F mount (for the D7000)? And except for the 1st and 4th, are the rest of them are FX compatible?
When I zoom my camera to 105mm of course with my lens it goes automatically to 5.6 so it’s almost a need for me to get something like 2.8 or better!
Other thing I don’t understand is when I look in the visor with a 105mm is there too much space for a smaller object. I will post here a photo that exemplifies what I mean. On this photo I wanted to concentrate on the water drops, and I think I couln’t approach more because I have a funtion on the camera for the shutter not to function if it doesn’t have a minimum range to focus, so, from the distance I was it’s what I got, but the problem is I only wanted to take a picture of the drops. What lens is right for this? I’m asking this because if I go with a 105 prime, of course I’ll be satisfied with the DOF, the sharpness…but what about the frame and the need to shoot a 1 inch object to fill a 3×2 photo? I have a flexible tailor ruller with the european meters on a side and inches the other side… I pointed my camera to it in a minimal AF focusing distance of 28cm (11,5inches) and I see on the camera visor 4,5 inches of that ruller, when I wanted to see like 3 inches maximum! I tested another camera I have, it’s a PANASONIC FZ100, it’s a bridge camera, that allows telephoto with one fix zoom lens (25mm-600mm equiv) and I got the 3 inches I wanted but there is the need to go back like a meter or more in order to do a proper AF. This is a link to see the range of that zoom.
http://www.dpreview.com/news/2…..icdmcfz100
Maybe that lens is only for telephoto…to bring things that are too faraway. Oh but I noticed you put the closest focus on the list! When so I cannot compare that micro 105 with the full extended zoom (105) on my kit lens, is that right?
DSC_0567 by danielaportela, on Flickr
1. Life size (1:1) means that an object you are photographing will show up a life size on the sensor, Half size means that an object you are photographing will show up a half of life size on the sensor.
The sensor in DX camera is 23.6mm x 15.6mm. Let say you are taking a picture of a very small object which length is 16mm, with life size (1:1) reproduction ration the object size captured on the sensor will be 16mm, with half size (1:2) reproduction ration the object size captured on the sensor will be 16mm/2 = 8mm. The Reproduction ration for your kit lens is 1:5, which means that the biggest size you can get 16mm object on your sensor will be – 16mm/5 = a bit more then 3mm. It looks like I will have to make a video on this with visuals for better understanding.
2. Yes, it looks like 1st and 4th are not FX competible, but the rest are.
3. AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED is great because the widest aperture is F2.8, which will give you a shallower DoF, lower ISO in darker conditions and faster shatter speed. Also with this lens you can fill up your frame at 1:1 ration (what it is I already explained above). Compare to your kit lens at focal length at 105mm, with this lens you will be able to focus closer to the subject, which will make subject bigger in your frame.
12:15 am
July 25, 2012
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Thank you so much for all the information. I will study it carefully and hopefully save some money after the holidays to go for a good lens like the 105VR 2.8 you recommended. It will be an interesting class to compare the DX to FX bodies, advantages and disadvantages of a crop sensor, and that kind of correspondences like of the reproduction ration you explained. There are also some mathematics to be done related with the mm (focal length?) equivalency of the lenses when we use it in a DX or in a FX body . I’m looking forward to it!
I took the liberty in sharing a link to a photo of a friend from flickr and I found it very incredible that he is just a beginner like me, and he is using a kit lens 18-55mm but he is shooting at a distance of 0.3 (30cm from object=12 inches) with amazing sharp in the focus.
How is this possible? If you have the time please take a pick.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7…..3064/meta/
This is nice. AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED II has Minimum Focus Distance 0.9 ft. (0.28m), so he was almost as close as possible to the subject, but I have a feeling that the picture is still a bit cropped in post. The picture is resize, so I can’t see for sure how sharp it is. Resized picture with some sharpening added always look sharper then the large image.
Also he could have used manual focus and the tripod, this way you can be more precise with focus.
The DoF is great. The closer to the subject you are, the shallower DoF you get and the further your background is, the more background blur you get. I think this is the case here.
10:34 pm
VIP Student
September 15, 2012
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The Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G EDII is an amazing lens at it’s low price. It is a shame that it is a “kit” lens as this designation implies that it is somehow inferior. It is not.
Daniela… I particularly like your 0627 shot of the butterfly. The dof gives the impression that we are sneaking a look. You take an in-depth approach to photography that has been lost with the advent of point and shoots and camera phones.
I wish you the best, Mandrake.
Mandrake.
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