Easy Exposure - Forum: Lightening and Hardware

patindaytona on USING A SOFTBOX

Tue, 01 Dec 2015 14:14:55 -0800

Just curious............is anyone using one here? I just bought a nice 24 x 24 softbox. Good size and practical for using in most places. I've had some umbrellas and in fact just bough some brollies and i decided i'd rather have a softbox, so i sent the brollies back on ebay, but they would NOT exchange my money unless i had a tracking number.............no excuses. I had one, but i LOST IT ddddamit.

So, i never hear from them. I lost my brollies i paid for and also the cost of shipping them back which was $12 right there! Big mistake.

easyexposure on Flash purchased from amazon. Altura professional kit

Wed, 09 Jul 2014 22:06:30 -0700

Hi Dave! Welcome to the forum! We are happy to have you as a part go our community! I never used this particular flash, but seams like a very good deal and it seams like most of the people were happy with it. You will need to stock up an the batteries so, as will any flash. I would just recommend to buy rechargeable. You should definitely test it and post some pictures.

Dave on Flash purchased from amazon. Altura professional kit

Sun, 06 Jul 2014 20:30:24 -0700

qid=1404703519&sr=8-4&keywords=altura+flash

I was was looking for a good flash and found this on amazon. There were no pro reviews but only from those who purchased them. The purchasers were talking quite high about this kit

just wondering if anybody has any experience using them. ? I hope to get them in few days and then I will n

be able to share my experiences.

Dave

Josh on Trouble in using newly bought external flash..

Wed, 24 Jul 2013 06:37:02 -0700

Hi guys....I'm back....its been a busy few month back...so sorry for that...btw...

A few days ago i'v bought myself this cheap SUNPAK PZ42X external flash...it did'nt come with user manual but i'v manage to download it Somewhere from the internet.(I did'nt remember where)..The thing is even with the user manual i'v found that this flash was so hard to use.its really giving me the headache...I'v even search Youtube for the tutorial videos but yet come out with these two videos that not really helping me out in solving my problm.....have any of u guys in here use that particular flash before,even now?I really need help here...A step by step video tutorial would be best...on how to use it/getting started that is..

wattage on Looking for a light meter and have an iPhone 4/4S/5? Consider this.

Thu, 04 Jul 2013 09:16:19 -0700

Hi Oksana. The inventors have a video on the main page (at the bottom) that compares the Luxi to normal light meters. It does just fine. And for $25, it was irresistible.

easyexposure on Looking for a light meter and have an iPhone 4/4S/5? Consider this.

Wed, 03 Jul 2013 21:15:43 -0700

This is cool little devise! I wonder how accurate it is. Wattage, You are also right about the need of light meter. There is two types of light meters - incident and reflective. Incident is measuring light itself (this is what this devise is), reflective measures light reflected from the subject (in camera light better). Incident is more accurate, because it is not influenced by color/brightness of the subject. Also Incident meter is useful in the studio, when using strobes, since it can measure light at the moment, when strobe is firing (which is not possible with reflective light meter).

wattage on Looking for a light meter and have an iPhone 4/4S/5? Consider this.

Mon, 10 Jun 2013 20:48:12 -0700

When shooting in a studio environment, the need becomes clear. The light meters built-into DSLRs are good in many environments, but the studio isn't one of them. They are easily fooled by the lighting conditions in a studio and often deliver inconsistent results. Not good when time is money and results are crucial.

Dedicated light meters fill that gap but they are expensive. Until now. At $25, the Luxi is a compelling choice for photographers who already own an iPhone.

Mandrake on Looking for a light meter and have an iPhone 4/4S/5? Consider this.

Mon, 10 Jun 2013 18:40:35 -0700

There are several free apps for the iphone that allow it to function as a light meter.
I don't really see the need for one though as any dslr has it built in.

wattage on Looking for a light meter and have an iPhone 4/4S/5? Consider this.

Mon, 10 Jun 2013 14:40:11 -0700

I've been wanting to purchase a light meter, but the prices are more than I want to spend -- even used. I came across this device and just had to share it with everyone.

It's called the Luxi, an add-on light meter for the iPhone 4/4S/5. It's available now for preorder for $25 (USA). It looks great and I just could not resist the price. The site has a video of it in action and comparisons to regular light meters. Check it out!

daniela on Any hints tips for light meter sekonic L758 DR model.....

Mon, 08 Apr 2013 07:54:08 -0700

Hi guys, what do you think of SEKONIC L-308S ? Is it too worth getting one or it's a lot better the L-758DR you are talking about. By the way, I found a intructions video for intekhab0731, it's divided in 3 parts but I'll only post the link for the first part, and you search of the others next.

easyexposure on FLASH CONVERSATION I

Fri, 05 Apr 2013 09:43:54 -0700

Pocket Wizard has a trigger which will fire the flash in TTL mode.
Check out this: http://www.pocketwizard.com/in.....controltl/

daniela on FLASH CONVERSATION II - Using popup flash to control remote flash

Wed, 13 Feb 2013 13:33:11 -0800

Hello guys,
I'm having some problems using the CLS (nikon Creative lighting System) controling a remote flash with the comander mode from the popup (built-in flash) of the camera. On the CMD (Comander mode) I regulated the flash to (--) for not affecting the scene with his light, and only emits some light to the remote flash and bounce it again to the camera in order for the camera to know the correct values of power to aim the remote flash (like the IR comunication but with light) - that is the CLS by definition.
So I have a SB 700 in remote mode and TTL
and the D7000 in comander mode (--) and not in TTL
both connected to channel 1 and remote on group A.
Everything is perfect so on and I also regulate the flash sync speed to 1/320 for the shutter speed to be faster and maybe solve my problem that is:

When I shoot againts reflecting surfaces, like a mirror or glass in windows or shinny objects like metal...the light fired by the popup flash appears on reflections, like on the sun glasses of the fellow (Dom Bower) on the video I posted above. Can I avoid this?

On the video, Dom explains that we could correct this by raising the shutter speed..and I noticed that in my camera is very true when I put the shutter on 1/400, the first flash fires and then a few fraction of micro seconds the second one fires...and the picture is taken without the 1st flash to interfere in picture. But this makes no sense, besides the photo is too dark.

Another thing that happens is when I put the popup on CMD mode in (--) the picture is exacly the same that CMD mode in (TTL), what could be wrong?

I'm hopping Oksana solves this in her next video, because I'm getting crazy with so much flash bumping in the mirror to my eyes.

Hope to see your opinions guys.

daniela on FLASH CONVERSATION I

Sun, 10 Feb 2013 12:37:34 -0800

FLASH CONVERSATION I

Hello guys, I took these photos using a tripod and a light stand with a speedlight SB700 in TTL remote function. The SB700 is bouncing opposite direction into a white card on the 1st photo and bouncing opposite direction into a reflector on the 2nd photo.
Sometimes I think the flash power is not enough, so instead of giving EV compensation I use the FV lock function on the camera and point it to a darker spot on the place, (when I’m not using the tripod) and then do the FV lock, and only after that I take the picture.

The Pop up flash at this point is necessary because:
01-It calculates based on Nikon creative light system the amount of power needed for the remote SB700 flash to produce.
02-It triggers the remote flash to fire.

My settings on the incorporated flash control (menu e3 of the D7000) are:
CMD (commander mode for the internal flash but not in TTL (I put --) on the popup for his light not interfere with the scene. It means that this flash is only for evaluate the light conditions on the place and the produced light he fires does not interfere by lightning the picture. The problem is when I’m shooting against a reflecting surface or there are glass (windows) in front of me…this happens a lot when shooting house interiors.
So I heard about a card that is used to put in front of the flash, like this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/.....l_for.html, but I found it a little bit stupid to carry around this stuff, so I began to put my hand in front of the flash in order for the rectangle of light that comes from it does not appear on the reflections on the objects or glasses from the windows.

At this point everything is ok but I’m sick and tired of blocking with my hand the light from the pop-up flash, so I have some questions for you to solve:

a) Can I use a IR trigger to command the remote flash instead of the pop up flash? If so, what happens to the FV lock, how can I send the reading of the amount of necessary light to the remote flash if I haven’t the popup to do this?
What kind of alternative do you recommend?
b) Can I use another flash unit like the SB800 with the SB700 without problems in balancing the light power? I’m thinking in use them not mounted on camera but the 2 units mounted on light stands and something to trigger them.
Thanks for your opinions and feel free to comment any thing you can remember in order to fix this or add to the conversation.

easyexposure on Any hints tips for light meter sekonic L758 DR model.....

Sun, 13 Jan 2013 00:17:53 -0800

2 just means that your reading is F5.6 +1/5, which is very close to F5.6, so set your camera just to F5.6. If you would have reading of F5.6 and 8 for example (which is F5.6 + 4/5), it would be closer to F8. When you are taking pics in natural light just go with a number which is closer - if it is below 5, go with wider aperture. If it is above 5 go with smaller aperture. Or try both and see which one is better. It would not be such a big of a difference so. To get a precise f-number is much more easier in controlled environment, like in the studio for example.

intekhab0731 on Any hints tips for light meter sekonic L758 DR model.....

Fri, 04 Jan 2013 20:31:09 -0800

oksana can u please help me out here.....or can u please make video on light meter L-758 dr......